What is Gusset | Gusset Operations in Garment Making and Its Functions

Gusset in pattern and garment

The term "gusset" frequently appears in garment operation bulletins, particularly across various categories, including underwear and jackets. This recurring presence prompts an investigation into its precise meaning and diverse applications within the apparel manufacturing industry.

This note compiles an exploration of the term and its various functions in garments, aiming to clarify its significance and provide insight into its various applications.  

What is a Gusset (in the context of an apparel product)?

A gusset is a diamond-shaped or triangular piece of fabric that is sewn into a close-fitting garment in order to ease the movement of the arm or other body part. A common example of gussets is a diamond piece of fabric (self fabric) attached in the place where the inseam of two legs meet. 

Second definition: 

A gusset is a piece of fabric, mostly a small garment component, which is cut at the same time as other components of the garment in the cutting process. Gusset can be used from self fabric or from a different fabric (contrast color) when a designer wants to emphasize the placement of the gusset for a better fit of the garment. While a self-fabric piece is used as a gusset, it normally remains unknown to the wearer. 

Gusset operations 

The process of assembling or joining the gusset component to the other garment parts is known as the gusset operation. This operation is performed using a sewing machine. In garment construction, if there is a gusset component to be sewn to the garment, you name the operation gusset join (gusset sew).  

What is the function of a gusset component in a garment?

Unlike other garment components in a product, this operation is considered a special operation in some garments with additional components and materials used that are intended to improve the comfort and ease of movement for the wearer. The following are some of the various applications of a gusset.

Application of gussets in garments and clothes. 

The gusset is attached in various garments anchad in specific locations to those garments. Here are a few examples of gussets. 

Use of gusset in pants and underwear: In pants or shorts, a gusset is inserted in the area between the legs to increase mobility, reduce strain, and prevent tearing or splitting. These gussets are known as crotch gussets. In the underwear gusset is added to reinforce the crotch area and absorb liquid. A gusset added to the shorts in the crotch area gives comfort.  

Use of gusset in the underarm of the garments: Gussets added in the underarm are called a sleeve gusset. The sleeve gusset is inserted into the underarm area of a garment to provide ease of movement and reduce stress on the fabric when the arms are raised or stretched.

Use of gussets in the shoulder: Shoulder gussets are used in garments such as jackets or coats to improve shoulder mobility and provide ease of movement, especially in activities that require arm extension or rotation.

Use of gussets in the side seam of garments: Extra fabric panels attached to two sides of the garment are called side gussets. Side gussets are added to garments to increase the width or depth, providing extra room and flexibility for the wearer or user.


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Prasanta Sarkar

Prasanta Sarkar is a textile engineer and a postgraduate in fashion technology from NIFT, New Delhi, India. He has authored 6 books in the field of garment manufacturing technology, garment business setup, and industrial engineering. He loves writing how-to guide articles in the fashion industry niche. He has been working in the apparel manufacturing industry since 2006. He has visited garment factories in many countries and implemented process improvement projects in numerous garment units in different continents including Asia, Europe, and South Africa. He is the founder and editor of the Online Clothing Study Blog.

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