Prior to defining SAM of the garment, detailed operation breakdown is made by engineer. Both manual and machine operations are included in the operation list. Then a skilled operator is given to do operations one by one.
5 to 10 samples are studied.
All operations are studied by GSD expert for motion analysis. At the same time all operations are videoed for future reference. Calculated SAM of the operations for a Formal Shirt has been shown in the following table. This has been defined by a GSD practitioner of a large size Indian garment export company using GSD software.
The following SAM of each individual operation will help to understand how a shirt’s SAM reach up to a certain value. The SAM of the operation may vary according to the changes styling of the shirts, seam length, attachment and work aids used, motion sequence used by the operator and machine type.
5 to 10 samples are studied.
 |
| Mens Shirt (Image source:dk.gant.com) |
All operations are studied by GSD expert for motion analysis. At the same time all operations are videoed for future reference. Calculated SAM of the operations for a Formal Shirt has been shown in the following table. This has been defined by a GSD practitioner of a large size Indian garment export company using GSD software.
The following SAM of each individual operation will help to understand how a shirt’s SAM reach up to a certain value. The SAM of the operation may vary according to the changes styling of the shirts, seam length, attachment and work aids used, motion sequence used by the operator and machine type.
Product: Full Sleeve Men’s Formal Shirt. Brand: Arrow
Total Garment SAM: 22.32 minutes.
Sl.
No.
|
Operation
List
|
SAM
|
1
|
Pinning to profile
|
0.234
|
2
|
Run stitch collar
|
0.219
|
3
|
Trim collar
|
0.285
|
4
|
Clip and turn collar
|
0.223
|
5
|
Crease collar
|
0.381
|
6
|
Top stitch collar
|
0.42
|
7
|
Run stitch (R/s) collar band
|
0.291
|
8
|
Crease collar band
|
0.317
|
9
|
Insert collar in neck band
|
0.799
|
10
|
Turn and crease collar
|
0.452
|
11
|
Attach bias piece to cuff
|
0.874
|
12
|
Crease cuff
|
0.458
|
13
|
Hem cuff
|
0.501
|
14
|
R/s cuff
|
0.565
|
15
|
Trim cuff
|
0.36
|
16
|
Turn cuff
|
0.527
|
17
|
Crease cuff bottom
|
0.566
|
18
|
Attach placket to sleeve
|
0.795
|
19
|
Lock and make diamond
|
1.026
|
20
|
Sew pleats (4 no.)
|
0.389
|
21
|
Hem right front
|
0.494
|
22
|
Attach
front placket
|
0.603
|
23
|
Crease pocket
|
0.542
|
24
|
Hem pocket mouth
|
0.28
|
25
|
Attach pocket to front
|
0.861
|
26
|
Attach brand label and tack loop
|
0.589
|
27
|
Crease patch pieces
|
0.236
|
28
|
Attach patch piece
|
0.333
|
29
|
Sew pleats
|
0.278
|
30
|
Attach yoke to back
|
0.475
|
31
|
Top stitch back yoke
|
0.365
|
32
|
Join shoulder
|
0.64
|
33
|
Top stitch shoulder
|
0.656
|
34
|
Attach collar
|
0.535
|
35
|
Close collar with size label
|
1.01
|
36
|
Sleeve attach
|
0.862
|
37
|
Top stitch armhole
|
0.678
|
38
|
Top stitch side seam
|
1.036
|
39
|
Attach & close cuff
|
0.696
|
40
|
Top stitch cuff
|
0.524
|
41
|
Hem bottom
|
0.947
|
Total SAM
|
22.322
|
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