Operation Breakdown and SAM of the Full Sleeve Formal Men’s Shirt

Prior to defining SAM of the garment, detailed operation breakdown is made by engineer. Both manual and machine operations are included in the operation list. Then a skilled operator is given to do operations one by one.

5 to 10 samples are studied.
Mens Shirt (Image source:dk.gant.com)

All operations are studied by GSD expert for motion analysis. At the same time all operations are videoed for future reference. Calculated SAM of the operations for a Formal Shirt has been shown in the following table. This has been defined by a GSD practitioner of a large size Indian garment export company using GSD software.

The following SAM of each individual operation will help to understand how a shirt’s SAM reach up to a certain value. The SAM of the operation may vary according to the changes styling of the shirts, seam length, attachment and work aids used, motion sequence used by the operator and machine type. 


Product: Full Sleeve Men’s Formal Shirt. Brand: Arrow 

Total Garment SAM: 22.32 minutes.
Sl. No.
Operation List
SAM
1
Pinning to profile
0.234
2
Run stitch collar
0.219
3
Trim collar
0.285
4
Clip and turn collar
0.223
5
Crease collar
0.381
6
Top stitch collar
0.42
7
Run stitch (R/s) collar band
0.291
8
Crease collar band
0.317
9
Insert collar in neck band
0.799
10
Turn and crease collar
0.452
11
Attach bias piece to cuff
0.874
12
Crease cuff
0.458
13
Hem cuff
0.501
14
 R/s cuff
0.565
15
Trim cuff
0.36
16
Turn cuff
0.527
17
Crease cuff bottom
0.566
18
Attach placket to sleeve
0.795
19
Lock and make diamond
1.026
20
Sew pleats (4 no.)
0.389
21
Hem right front
0.494
22
 Attach front placket
0.603
23
Crease pocket
0.542
24
Hem pocket mouth
0.28
25
Attach pocket to front
0.861
26
Attach brand label and tack loop
0.589
27
Crease patch pieces
0.236
28
Attach patch piece
0.333
29
Sew pleats
0.278
30
Attach yoke to back
0.475
31
Top stitch back yoke
0.365
32
Join shoulder
0.64
33
Top stitch shoulder
0.656
34
Attach collar
0.535
35
Close collar with size label
1.01
36
Sleeve attach
0.862
37
Top stitch armhole
0.678
38
Top stitch side seam
1.036
39
Attach & close cuff
0.696
40
Top stitch cuff
0.524
41
Hem bottom
0.947

Total SAM
22.322

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