Cutting Room Terminologies in Apparel Industry

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Cutting room terms used in apparel manufacturing like Bias cut, Die cutting, end loss, face to face spreading etc.

In cutting room number of technical terms and trade terms are used to communicate processes, components, and tools. I have made a list of those terms and explained those in the following table.

Common Terminology
Definition
Band knife 
An endless blade vertical knife, around which the work is moved over the large cutting table
Bias Cut
‘Cut on the Bias’ – cut at an angle to both the warp and the weft of the cloth, at 45 degree.
Baker’s Trolley
A wheeled rack used to transport sections of the lay from the cutting table to the band knife and from the band knife to the sorting operations.
Block Cutting or Blocking out
Cutting roughly around a part which is subsequently cut very precisely, by various means. Also for splitting the lay, to assist handling to the band knife.
Bowing
A fault in woven cloth in which the weft is not straight across the piece but has curve.
Clicker Press
Used for parts of intricate nature and repetitive, also for parts requiring a high degree of accuracy.
Cross
‘Cut on the crosses – Cut at right angles to the grain of the cloth (On bias).
Damage
A fabric fault. It may be generated during handling fabric inside factory or faulty fabric sent the fabric supplier.
Die cutting 
Used where accuracy is important and there is enough repetition
End loss
The cloth at the end of the lay that is not covered by the marker
Face one way spreading 
The face side of each ply faces the same way (up or down)
Face to face spreading
Method of spreading in which the cloth is alternately facing up or down, as a result of continuous to and fro movement of the roll over the lay.
Face to face one way spreading 
Used for directional fabric where the pile (direction) is required to lie in the same direction on all the plies.
Layout (pattern layout) 
The geometrical layout of the pattern pieces in a garment, which is cut around to produce the parts of the garment
Marker
a) A man who prepares the pattern layout and/or who marks the layout onto the lay or onto a paper or a cloth.
b) A piece of paper, cloth etc. representing the layout.    
Notch
A small cut into the part, which aids the location during assembly by indicating to the operator some requirement for matching with other notches or positions in the garment
On the fold
Method of finishing the cloth so that it is folded to half its width
Shading
Means colour in cloth. It is commonly used to imply that a particular bit/roll of cloth is different in shade from another bit.
Shade Numbering
Process of numbering parts to ensure they are of same shade
Slubs 
A local thick place in the yarn in a cloth usually caused by error but in some cloths it is introduced purposely


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Cutting room Overview
Cutting machinery and equipment for garment manufacturing

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Online Clothing Study: Cutting Room Terminologies in Apparel Industry
Cutting Room Terminologies in Apparel Industry
Cutting room terms used in apparel manufacturing like Bias cut, Die cutting, end loss, face to face spreading etc.
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