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| Figure 1: Cutting room process flow chart |
1. Pattern and Marker:
The pattern-making process took place before fabric cutting. According to the design and fit, patterns of different garment parts are made on pattern paper and cut into pattern pieces. For manual marker, these pattern pieces are used for marker making. On the other hand, in a CAD system, patterns are made on the computer. Later, using a plotter, markers are printed on the sheet. In the second case, the cutting department receives a ready marker from the CAD department.
2. Cut ratio receiving:
Before fabric cutting, the cutting department gets a job sheet from the planning department, or merchandiser, or the production manager. The cut plan includes the total quantity of garment pieces to be cut, sizes ratio of the garments and colour-wise size break-up.
According to the size and colour ratio cutting team prepare one marker or multiple markers. Marker length and number of lay to be cut are planned in this stage.
3. Fabric receiving:
Fabric requirement for an order is calculated according to the average consumption of the fabric from the marker. In case of multiple colour order, colour wise requirement is made. Fabric department issue fabric to cutting against the fabric requirement (generally requisition slip is used).
4. Fabric relaxation:
This process is optional. Specially used for knits fabric. During rolling of fabric it get stretched. So it is essential to bring the fabric on stable form otherwise garment would shrink after making. To relax the fabric roll or thān is opened and spread and kept for about 24 hours.
5. Spreading (Fabric Layering):
In this stage, the fabric sheet is layered one above another maintaining pre-defined maker length and correct ply tension. Fabric is layered up to a certain height to avoid cutting quality problems. Spreading is done by manual layering or automatic layering machine can be used. During layering of the fabric, the fabric edge is aligned at one side.
6. Marker Making:
After layering of a lay, pre-made paper patterns (or ready markers made by plotter) are placed on the top layer of the lay. In manual marker making, marking is done around each pattern shape using marking chalk. This process is called marker making. In a marker, all garment components are placed.
7. Cutting:
The lay is cut following the marked lines on the top of the lay. Cutting is done using a straight knife or other cutting means. In the cutting process, the garment components are separated. Based on pattern shape, different cutting methods/machines are selected.
Related: Cutting room process flow chart
8. Ply Numbering (Ticketing):
Separated garment components are numbered to ensure that, in stitching, all components from the same layer are stitched together. It is important to avoid shade variation in a garment. This process is known as layer numbering or ticketing.
Between the cutting and sewing processes, cut components may be passed through other processes like printing and embroidery. There is a maximum chance of mixing the components. If there is a layer number in each component, then at the time of stitching only correct components will be stitched together. Mis-match of fabric plies may cause shade variation in garment, mis-match component size will cause a defective garment production.
9. Sorting of bundles:
According to the production system (Make through, progressive bundle, or one-piece flow system), cut components are sorted manually. Shorting of garment parts is done by PO, size, and color. For a single-piece flow production system, all components of a garment are placed together, and a bundle is made. For complex garments that mas several components, small bundles are made for garment components, and then a master bundle is made with all components of a garment.
Size-wise sorting and in case multiple colours are cut in a single lay, colour-wise sorting will be required.
10. Bundling
As per the production line requirement, a certain number of pieces with all components are tied together. This process is known as bundling. Normally bundle size is kept 10 to 20 units, depending on the product. Each bundle is marked with the bundle number, the style name, the size number, and the quantity of pieces in that bundle. At this stage, cuttings are ready to move to the production line for stitching. Explore more about the bundling process in a garment production unit.
- What is ply numbering in the cutting process?
- What are the common functions of a cutting room?
- Cutting table sizes and dimensions
- Fabric spreading modes of different types of fabrics
- Cutting room machinery and equipment for garment manufacturing