Cut Order Planning – Making an Economical Cut Plan


Question:

We are assigned an order quantity of 10,000 pieces with three different colours (Red, Blue, White) in ratio 1:2:1 and sizes (Small, Medium, Large, XL) in ratio 1:2:1:2. The fabric cost is rupees 35 per meter.

Single garment length by size: Small- 1.25 meter, Medium-1.5 meter, Large- 1.75 meter, and XL-1.80 meter.

We need to make an economical cutting plan with 4 garments per lay and 100 plies/lays (maximum plies per lay). Can you help me on solving this question?


Answer:

I love solving such problems where there is math. I will show you the cut plan (optimized cut plan) and also show you the fabric cost if you need it for the selected cut order plan.

It is true that if you use a software/application, you can get the cut planning with all your size breakup, marker ratio in a minute. But preparing cut-planning manually will take some time. An Excel-based cut planning template can also save a lot of time for preparing a cut plan for a given order. 

Quantity breakdown by size and colour ratio

In the question – you know the total order quantity (10000 pieces), and we need to breakdown the total order quantity into 4 sizes and 3 colours. See the below table for the size and colour-wise quantity break-up. I have taken rounded quantity – so after the breakdown, we got 10,006 pieces.

Table-1: Order quantity breakdown 

 

 

S

M

L

XL

Total Qty

 

Size Ratio

1

2

1

2

 

Red

1

417

834

417

834

2502

Blue

2

834

1667

834

1667

5002

White

1

417

834

417

834

2502

 

 

1668

3335

1668

3335

10,006


Marker planning

Following the conditions mentioned in the question - 
  • we can make a maximum 4-way marker. This means in a lay, we can cut a maximum of 4 garments of any size combination.
  • The second condition – a maximum of 100 plies of fabric can be laid in a single lay.
  • There is no restriction on cutting multiple colours on the same layer.

Cut order planning

In the following table, the cut order plan is shown for the given order. Colour-wise lay details are shown. In the table, lay number, number of lay per ratio, per colour, size-wise quantity, Total pieces cut in those lays, and total plies. In Lay#25 and #26, all 3 colours are laid together. 

Table-2: Cut order planning

 

Number of Lays

Ply numbers

S

M

L

XL

 Total pieces

Total Plies

Red (order qty)

 

 

417

834

417

834

 

 

Red (Lay#1-4)

4

100

400

400

400

400

 1600

400

Red (Lay#5-6)

2

100

 

400

 

400

   800

200

Balance qty (Red)

 

 

17

34

17

34

 

 

 

 

 

 

Blue (order Qty)

 

 

834

1667

834

1667

 

 

Blue (Lay#7-14)

8

100

800

800

800

800

 3200

800

Blue (Lay#15-18)

4

100

 

800

 

800

 1600

400

Balance qty (Blue)

 

 

34

67

34

67

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

White (Order Qty)

 

 

417

834

417

834

 

 

White (Lay#19-22)

4

100

400

400

400

400

 1600

400

White (Lay#23-24)

2

100

 

400

 

400

 800

200

Balance qty (White)

 

 

17

34

17

34

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Red (Lay#25)

1

17

17

17

17

17

 68

68

Blue (Lay#25)

34

34

34

34

34

 136

 

White (Lay#25)

17

17

17

17

17

 68

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Blue (Lay#26)

1

17

 

34

 

34

 68

35

Red (Lay#26)

9

 

18

 

18

 36

 

White (Lay#26)

9

 

18

 

18

 36

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 26

 

 

 

 

 

 10,012

 2503


Calculating fabric requirement and cost:

To calculate the total fabric cost, first, you need to find the fabric consumption (fabric requirement) for this order. We have 2 different markers as following. Size-wise fabric consumption in meters is mentioned in the question and from we get marker length 6.3 meters and 6.6 meters. See the following table. (Assuming that the length given in meter per size is fabric consumption in linear length)

S:M:L:XL = 1:1:1:1
M:XL::2:2

Table-3: Fabric requirement and fabric cost calculation

Number of plies

S

M

L

XL

Marker Length (Meter)

Fabric Consumption (Meter)

1668

1.25

1.5

1.75

1.8

6.3

15,508.4

835

 

1.5

 

1.8

3.3 x 2 =6.6

5,511.0


Total fabric requirement based on the cut plan
= (15,508.4 + 5,511) meters
=16,019.4

Fabric cost= Rs. 35 per meter
Total cost = (16,019.4 x 35) = Rs.

Note: We have not included any margin and allowances in this calculation. This calculation and result shown here are for your reference and learning purpose only. In actual fabric consumption, you need to add fabric wastage for end loss, end bits, and defective fabrics.


Prasanta Sarkar

Prasanta Sarkar is a textile engineer and a postgraduate in fashion technology from NIFT, New Delhi, India. He has authored 6 books in the field of garment manufacturing technology, garment business setup, and industrial engineering. He loves writing how-to guide articles in the fashion industry niche. He has been working in the apparel manufacturing industry since 2006. He has visited garment factories in many countries and implemented process improvement projects in numerous garment units in different continents including Asia, Europe, and South Africa. He is the founder and editor of the Online Clothing Study Blog.

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