# Cut Order Planning – Making an Economical Cut Plan

Question:

We are assigned an order quantity of 10,000 pieces with three different colours (Red, Blue, White) in ratio 1:2:1 and sizes (Small, Medium, Large, XL) in ratio 1:2:1:2. The fabric cost is rupees 35 per meter.

Single garment length by size: Small- 1.25 meter, Medium-1.5 meter, Large- 1.75 meter, and XL-1.80 meter.

We need to make an economical cutting plan with 4 garments per lay and 100 plies/lays (maximum plies per lay). Can you help me on solving this question?

I love solving such problems where there is math. I will show you the cut plan (optimized cut plan) and also show you the fabric cost if you need it for the selected cut order plan.

It is true that if you use a software/application, you can get the cut planning with all your size breakup, marker ratio in a minute. But preparing cut-planning manually will take some time. An Excel-based cut planning template can also save a lot of time for preparing a cut plan for a given order.

### Quantity breakdown by size and colour ratio

In the question – you know the total order quantity (10000 pieces), and we need to breakdown the total order quantity into 4 sizes and 3 colours. See the below table for the size and colour-wise quantity break-up. I have taken rounded quantity – so after the breakdown, we got 10,006 pieces.

Table-1: Order quantity breakdown

 S M L XL Total Qty Size Ratio 1 2 1 2 Red 1 417 834 417 834 2502 Blue 2 834 1667 834 1667 5002 White 1 417 834 417 834 2502 1668 3335 1668 3335 10,006

### Marker planning

Following the conditions mentioned in the question -
• we can make a maximum 4-way marker. This means in a lay, we can cut a maximum of 4 garments of any size combination.
• The second condition – a maximum of 100 plies of fabric can be laid in a single lay.
• There is no restriction on cutting multiple colours on the same layer.

### Cut order planning

In the following table, the cut order plan is shown for the given order. Colour-wise lay details are shown. In the table, lay number, number of lay per ratio, per colour, size-wise quantity, Total pieces cut in those lays, and total plies. In Lay#25 and #26, all 3 colours are laid together.

Table-2: Cut order planning

 Number of Lays Ply numbers S M L XL Total pieces Total Plies Red (order qty) 417 834 417 834 Red (Lay#1-4) 4 100 400 400 400 400 1600 400 Red (Lay#5-6) 2 100 400 400 800 200 Balance qty (Red) 17 34 17 34 Blue (order Qty) 834 1667 834 1667 Blue (Lay#7-14) 8 100 800 800 800 800 3200 800 Blue (Lay#15-18) 4 100 800 800 1600 400 Balance qty (Blue) 34 67 34 67 White (Order Qty) 417 834 417 834 White (Lay#19-22) 4 100 400 400 400 400 1600 400 White (Lay#23-24) 2 100 400 400 800 200 Balance qty (White) 17 34 17 34 Red (Lay#25) 1 17 17 17 17 17 68 68 Blue (Lay#25) 34 34 34 34 34 136 White (Lay#25) 17 17 17 17 17 68 Blue (Lay#26) 1 17 34 34 68 35 Red (Lay#26) 9 18 18 36 White (Lay#26) 9 18 18 36 26 10,012 2503

### Calculating fabric requirement and cost:

To calculate the total fabric cost, first, you need to find the fabric consumption (fabric requirement) for this order. We have 2 different markers as following. Size-wise fabric consumption in meters is mentioned in the question and from we get marker length 6.3 meters and 6.6 meters. See the following table. (Assuming that the length given in meter per size is fabric consumption in linear length)

S:M:L:XL = 1:1:1:1
M:XL::2:2

Table-3: Fabric requirement and fabric cost calculation
 Number of plies S M L XL Marker Length (Meter) Fabric Consumption (Meter) 1668 1.25 1.5 1.75 1.8 6.3 15,508.4 835 1.5 1.8 3.3 x 2 =6.6 5,511.0

Total fabric requirement based on the cut plan
= (15,508.4 + 5,511) meters
=16,019.4

Fabric cost= Rs. 35 per meter
Total cost = (16,019.4 x 35) = Rs.

Note: We have not included any margin and allowances in this calculation. This calculation and result shown here are for your reference and learning purpose only. In actual fabric consumption, you need to add fabric wastage for end loss, end bits, and defective fabrics.

### Prasanta Sarkar

Prasanta Sarkar is a textile engineer and a postgraduate in fashion technology from NIFT, New Delhi, India. He has authored 6 books in the field of garment manufacturing technology, garment business setup, and industrial engineering. He loves writing how-to guide articles in the fashion industry niche. He has been working in the apparel manufacturing industry since 2006. He has visited garment factories in many countries and implemented process improvement projects in numerous garment units in different continents including Asia, Europe, and South Africa. He is the founder and editor of the Online Clothing Study Blog. He lives in India. linkedin