How to Control Shrinkage in Knitted Fabric without CPL?

This question is asked by one OCS reader.

He mentioned that he came to know in China and Turkey factories are controlling fabric shrinkage without CPL. They are also using one pattern for different lots. If this is possible and they know the process, they can save time and reduces more process at the stage of cutting after receiving fabric.

This is a common practice found in small size factories – they wash knits fabrics for pre-shrinkage to control shrinkage in garment in washing. This process is know as cut-panel-laundry (CPL). CPL process is explained in this article.

As per my knowledge shrinkage control without CPL is possible by setting fabric (fabric dimension) during wet processing in mills. This process is known as tentering. There are different processes for different fibre content.

When I was working in an export house, we have made many knits orders for UCB. UCB used to send us open width knits fabric rolls. We cut those fabrics without any pre-shrinkage (pre-washing/CPL) prior to fabric cutting. Also they used to provide us single pattern for all fabric lots. We don't have issue regarding garment shrinkage to washing.

As I am not aware much about textile wet processing I seek your advice on this question. If you know more about shrinkage control without CPL, please share it with us.

Prasanta Sarkar

Prasanta Sarkar is a textile engineer and a postgraduate in fashion technology from NIFT, New Delhi, India. He has authored 6 books in the field of garment manufacturing technology, garment business setup, and industrial engineering. He loves writing how-to guide articles in the fashion industry niche. He has been working in the apparel manufacturing industry since 2006. He has visited garment factories in many countries and implemented process improvement projects in numerous garment units in different continents including Asia, Europe, and South Africa. He is the founder and editor of the Online Clothing Study Blog.

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