Fabric Plan for Knits: Relationship Between Yarn Count, Machine Gauge and Fabric GSM

Fabric plat for knits

In past, couple of OCS readers asked me following questions on knitting,

  1. What is the relationship between yarn count, machine gauge and GSM in knitted fabrics? 
  2. What machine gauge and yarn count they should use to get desired fabric GSM?

Frankly speaking, I do not know the answer of these questions. Many thanks to Samuel JC, who shared his knowledge with us and helped us to find out the answer of the above questions through the following Fabric Plan. According to him following parameters are used in knitting industry to get the desired fabric quality in terms of GSM of greige and processed fabrics. GSM figures are shown in a range.

This fabric plan is one valuable resource for garment industry professionals who deal with knitted fabrics. Fabric knitters can also use this chart as a guideline. In the following table 18 different knits fabric categories are listed. For each categories what yarn counts are used and what machine gauge to use to get required GSM are shown.

For example, suppose one needs to make Singe Jersey of 160 GSM. To produce fabric of that quality, he needs to use 30's yarn and 24 gauge machine.

Fabric Plan for Knits

P.S. The above parameter values is used by many knitters and get GSM within the range mentioned above. You may also get similar results but we can't guarantee the outcome. Do R&D at your end prior to use the above parameters.

About Samuel JC:
Samuel is working as Technical Designer at Arvind Lifestyle, Bangalore. He did his M.F.Tech from NIFT, Banglore and B. Tech (Fashion Technology) from Kumaraguru College of Technology. Earlier he worked at Hasbro Clothing, Chennai as a Knitwear Designer.

Prasanta Sarkar

Prasanta Sarkar is a textile engineer and a postgraduate in fashion technology from NIFT, New Delhi, India. He has authored 6 books in the field of garment manufacturing technology, garment business setup, and industrial engineering. He loves writing how-to guide articles in the fashion industry niche. He has been working in the apparel manufacturing industry since 2006. He has visited garment factories in many countries and implemented process improvement projects in numerous garment units in different continents including Asia, Europe, and South Africa. He is the founder and editor of the Online Clothing Study Blog.

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