Process Flow Chart of Sampling Section in the Garment Industry

This flow chart is prepared based on my observation of a garment sampling section in a small-scale garment export house. The factory was primarily making knits articles, like t-shirts, ladies knit tops, and polo shirts.

The factory was getting export orders through a buying house. So, all the communication related to sample development and sample submission, and buyer’s feedback was communicated through the buying house merchandiser. A similar sample development process flow is used in the garment industry.

Whether you are a sampling coordinator or a sampling merchandiser or a beginner in garment sampling, you must know how a sampling section works in a garment export house. For a learner, the following process flow and the process flow chart will be helpful.

Process flowchart of garment sampling section

Chart: Process flowchart of garment sampling section 

In the above chart, you saw the sampling room workflow in pointers. In the following, the sample development procedure will be explained in detail.

  • The apparel merchandiser in a factory receives the sample requirements and the apparel tech pack from a buyer.
  • The product development team (sampling merchandiser)receives the sampling request from the merchandiser who holds the buyer account and communicates with the buying house.
  • Sampling merchandiser generates material requirement sheet. They ask trims/fabric stores to source all the items.
  • Sampling merchandisers explain the garment design/construction and buyer’s comments (following the tech pack) and style sketch.
  • Sampling merchandiser prepares sample development request and request pattern master to develop patterns
  • Pattern master develop patterns based on the tech pack and buyer’s comments
  • The sampling merchandiser arranges fabric and trims required for the sample and handover all items to the sampling section (supervisor). In most cases, initial garment samples are made for construction and fit details. So, the sampling team can make the first proto sample using existing fabric (with similar properties). In case value-added works like printing and embroidery work are to be done on the samples, the merchandiser takes care of that.
  • Sampling master cut the garment panels from fabric using sampling the patterns (all components)
  • All the components of a sample are given to a skilled tailor (sampling tailors)
  • The sampling supervisor explains to operators how to assemble garment panels to make the new sample.
  • As per the sampling supervisor’s (sampling master) instruction, one or a couple of sampling tailors make the first garment sample of a new model.
  • The sampling supervisor checks the progress of stitching and verifies the construction is done correctly.
  • Upon completing the sample stitching, a quality checker checks the sample through and check measurements and prepare a measurement checking report.
  • The fit of the sample is checked on the dress form. This is done when the buyer request fit checking on a dress form. Normally, this fit is done at the buyer’s office.
  • The sample is finished (thread trimming and ironing). Once the sample checker is satisfied with the sample quality, he/she hands it over to the sampling merchant. At this stage sampling process is done for the first proto sample. Then take another style for making a sample.
  • Sampling merchants check the sample again (in most cases) and prepare a document for submitting with the garment sample. Now the sample is ready for submission to the buyer.
  • On receiving the buyer’s comment on the first proto sample, the sampling department corrects the pattern (if required) and makes the same again if the buyer asks for a resubmission.

Related article: Different types of garment samples made by garment factories

You may find a little variation in sampling room process flow depending on the factory's set-up and buyer's sample requirement. But the above process flow is commonly used by many garment companies. 

Prasanta Sarkar

Prasanta Sarkar is a textile engineer and a postgraduate in fashion technology from NIFT, New Delhi, India. He has authored 6 books in the field of garment manufacturing technology, garment business setup, and industrial engineering. He loves writing how-to guide articles in the fashion industry niche. He has been working in the apparel manufacturing industry since 2006. He has visited garment factories in many countries and implemented process improvement projects in numerous garment units in different continents including Asia, Europe, and South Africa. He is the founder and editor of the Online Clothing Study Blog.

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