Operation Breakdown and Machines Types Used for Making a Cargo Pant

I made this operation breakdown in my college days as one class assignment. I visited one garment export house (factory) to study garment for this assignment. That time factory was making Cargo Pants (in Khaki fabric). It was a nice product.

When I started making an operation breakdown, first I was overwhelmed by looking at a number of operations of the cargo pant. In a cargo pant, I can only see double-needle stitching with thicker threads. Don't know where to start and how to breakdown operations. Then I follow the process, the way line was making that cargo pant. Finally, I made it and corrected later stage.

I did time study for most of the operations and also did motion study using SPD code and TMU values (Sewing Process Data). Here I am only sharing operation breakdown and machine types used for operations. I don’t have the actual image of the cargo pant that I had studied. Following image is just for an indication. Construction and styling of the actual cargo pant were different than this one.

The cargo pant that you have maybe different in styling and construction. By reading operation name here you can relate with your product and refer this for making your operation breakdown and modify where needed following your sample.
Oprn. Code Operation Description Machine Type
Back Panel:
A01 Attach left piece and middle piece of the back panel SNLS
A02 Attach 3rd piece to the previous one SNLS
A03 O/L the raw edges 4 thread O/L
A04 Topstitch on the stitch line DNLS
A05 Design stitch on back yokes SNLS
A06 Sew yoke with Back panel SNLS
A07 O/L of yoke and back seam 4 thread O/L
A08 Top stitch at yoke DNLS
A09 Strip attach inside back panel at pocket opening SNLS
A10 Back pocket attachment SNLS
Front Panel
B01 Sew front parts SNLS
B02 O/L the raw edges 4 thread O/L
B03 Topstitch on the stitch line DNLS
B04 Sew top pocket (side pocket) ply to pocket mouth (inside out) SNLS
B05 Fold out and Top stitch to pocket mouth   SNLS
B06 Stitch side pocket all three sides SNLS
B07 O/L front crotch area (J shaped) 4 O/L
B08 Zipper Fly attach to left panel SNLS
B09 Zipper attach to Zipper fly SNLS, single presser foot
B10 J-Stitch on the top of left panel at zipper area SNLS, single presser foot
B11 Right Zipper fly attached to zipper SNLS
B12 Right fly attached to right panel SNLS
Side Pocket:
C01 Attach rectangular patch on middle ply SNLS
C02 Place two pocket facing on the both side of it and stitch at curved area SNLS with edge cutter
C03 Take inner side out and top stitch at curved area SNLS
 Side Patch Pocket:
D01 Hand creasing and fold, stitch at bottom corners and fold out SNLS
D02 Pressing the folded edges Iron
D03 Top stitch at upper folded edges all three sides DNLS
D04 Sew folded portion at pocket mouth SNLS
D05 Zipper bottom fly attach pocket mouth  SNLS
D06 Zipper stitch with bottom fly SNLS
D07 Sew upper fly with zipper SNLS
D08 Sew small pocket on big one SNLS
D09 Attach flap SNLS
Small patch pocket
E01 Hand creasing and fold, stitch at bottom corners and fold out SNLS
E02 Hemming pocket opening and attach button loop SNLS
E03 Sew folded portion at pocket mouth (outer fold) SNLS
E04 Top stitch at upper folded edges all three sides DNLS, Compensating P/F
Small patch pocket Flap:
F01 Fusible interlining Fusing m/c
F02 Side fold first then centre fold and top stitch DNLS, Compensating P/F
Waist Band preparation:
G01 Fusing interlining all three parts ( Inner & Outer both) Fusing m/c
G02 Folding and Pressing (outer) and marking using template Iron and template
G03 Stitch front parts to back part( both inner & outer) SNLS
G04 Stitch inner and outer waist band (F to F)    keeping a small patch SNLS with edge-cutter
G05 Pressing waist band at the stitch line Iron
G06 Attach size label to brand label  SNLS
G07 Attach brand label to inner waist band Automated SNLS
G08 Stitch ends of  band SNLS
Back pocket:
H01 Serge pocket piece opening 3 thread O/L
H02 Serge the strip 3 thread O/L
H03 Stitching of pocket opening SNLS
H04 Folding pocket mouth and stitch at sides of opening DNLS
H05 Press three edges of pocket Hand iron
Belt loop:
I01 Run stitch SNLS
I02 Pressing Hand iron
I03 Closing of one end of belt loop SNLS
I04 Pressing Hand iron
I05 Top stitch on centre DNLS, Compensating p/f
I06 Cutting according to loop length Hand scissors
Zipper flap:
J01 Serge left zipper fly 3 thread O/L
J02 Fold and run stitch on right zipper fly SNLS
J03 Over lock stitch right zipper fly 3 thread O/L
K01 Side seam(Front and back attach) SNLS
K02 Over lock side seam 4 thread O/L
K03 Patch pocket attach SNLS
K04 Inseam SNLS
K05 O/L  the edges (inseam) 4 thread O/L
K06 Topstitch on inseam DNLS
K07 Attach left and right panel at seat and crotch area SNLS
K08 Over lock stitch 4 thread O/L
K09 Counter stitch SNLS
K10 Attach lower part of belt loop SNLS
K11 Attach waist band with wash care label SNLS
K12 Top stitch on waist band DNLS, Compensating p/f
K13 Second stitch on at lower side of belt loop SNLS
K14 Marking and Design stitch on belt loop and top end joining. SNLS
K15 Bottom hemming SNLS
K16 Stitching of zipper flaps at lower ends. SNLS
K17 Second Brand label attach Computerized L/s m/c
K18 Bar tack at loops, on J-stitch Bar tacking m/c, Raised bed

Machine name abbreviation:
  • SNLS - Single Needle Lock Stitch
  • DNLS - Double Needle Lock Stitch
  • O/L - Over lock Machine
  • M/c - Machine
  • L/S - Lock Stitch 
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Prasanta Sarkar

Prasanta Sarkar is a textile engineer and a postgraduate in fashion technology from NIFT, New Delhi, India. He has authored 6 books in the field of garment manufacturing technology, garment business setup, and industrial engineering. He loves writing how-to guide articles in the fashion industry niche. He has been working in the apparel manufacturing industry since 2006. He has visited garment factories in many countries and implemented process improvement projects in numerous garment units in different continents including Asia, Europe, and South Africa. He is the founder and editor of the Online Clothing Study Blog.

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  1. would like to start Made ups production unit(bed sheet,Coushion cover,Quilt) mass production, kindly advice with No of machines and machines lay out plan.what will daily production output.

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