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Showing posts from September, 2018

How to Eliminate Fabric Inspection from Garment Manufacturing Process?

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As a standard process, the medium and large-scale garment factories inspect the fabrics after receiving the fabric rolls from the fabric suppliers. The fabric checking process involves cost, manpower, machinery maintenance, and increases the process time. Now, the question is, can we eliminate the fabric inspection process in a garment factory? If yes, what will be the alternative way that would ensure having quality fabrics for cutting?
In this post, I have shared the common steps that can be followed to reduce the fabric inspection and slowly eliminate the inspection of the fabric those are purchased form a pre-evaluated fabric vendor.

Sharing one case. One start-up garment manufacturing company from Senegal was asking me to provide a trusted fabric supplier or a fabric trader contact. I asked her why she is mentioning the trusted supplier. Her simple reply was - first, they don’t have a system for fabric inspection at present as they are a newcomer. Secondly, if the fabric quality …

Different Types of Interlining and Interlining Selection Procedure

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What is interlining? Interlining is a layer of textile used between two outer layers of shell fabric to impart strength, support, stability and shape retention to the outer shell fabric against any distortion due to stress exerted at various stages of production, during wearing/use or aftercare treatments. The interlining is also called as interfacing.


Difference between interlining and lining The lining is a layer of textile used under the garment as cover to the raw edges and smooth surface to support outer shell for good drape. It can be woven or knits as needed for a particular application/use. For an example, in the girl’s frock, you will find white lining fabrics under the shell fabric.

As said above interlining is used between two outer fabric layers. For an example, fusible interlining used in collar and cuff in men’s formal shirts for stiffening the said components.

Why use interlining? Followings are the primary objective of using interlining in garments. Interlinings are pr…

Take-ways from the Seminar - the Art of Shirt Making

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Last week, on 15th Sept, I participated in the Tantu seminar. The seminar theme was The Art of Shirt Making. The theme was simple - it was about shirt manufacturing techniques, various ways of making shirt components, advantages and disadvantages of certain processes and garment parts. But the discussion points were in-depth.



I enjoyed the seminar program, liked the food and was happy to see old friends and seniors.

In this post, I will share some of my learnings and discussion topics covered in the seminar. Hope you will find this an interesting post.

The panel moderator Dr. Prabir Jana, prepared some very good questions for panelists which are listed below. The panel members shared their answers with different views to some questions and some questions they had similar views. From the audience, also we got answers to some questions.

I have listed the questions but would not share the answer from the panel members. I would like to know your answer first. I am sure, you know the answ…

Sourcing High Quality Fabrics for Custom Made Shirts, Suits and Trousers

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I need a guidance for fabric sourcing. I want to source fabric for my custom clothing business for men but I don't know where to start. I am looking for High Quality fabrics for shirts, suits and trousers. If you are not a newcomer, you already know that for making shirts, suits, and trousers you need woven fabrics. The woven fabrics are available in various designs, in various fabric constructions and fabric names. When you are referring the high quality or good quality woven fabrics, you need to define the quality standard which is good quality to you or for your custom-made clothing.


To answer your question, in this post, I will cover the following points
Fabric quality parametersImportance of maintaining the quality parametersShirting, suiting fabricsUnderstanding the quality standards of a high-quality fabric and deciding your requirement in term of quality standardsSourcing fabrics for your businessDeveloping fabric library Fabric quality parameters I am adding common fabric …

Reporting and Data Analysis of Overtime Work in Garment Manufacturing

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When a factory works more than the regular shift hours in a day, the extra hours are considered as overtime work. In India, 8 hours per day excluding the break time and 6 days week are considered the normal working hours. When a worker works more than 8 hours in a day or more than 48 hours in a week, those additional hours are counted as overtime working hour (OT hours).

For an example, in a garment manufacturing factory,
Normal working hours: 9:00 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. (30 minutes lunch break is included).
Overtime working hour starts after 5:30 p.m. If a factory works till 7:30 p.m., daily overtime work will be 2 hours.
Before starting the overtime work, factories give 10-15 minutes break. Including the break-time shift is extended up to 7:45 pm. The factory shift start time, lunch break duration and shift close time may vary from factory to factory.

As per the Factories Act 1948, every adult (a person who has completed 18 years of age) cannot work for more than 48 hours in a week and n…

How to Calculate Production Capacity of a Factory?

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In apparel Manufacturing, “Production capacity” is one of the most important criteria used for vendor selection by the buyers. It is because; the production time of an order is directly proportional to the vendor’s production capacity. So it is very important that marketing and planning personnel should aware of the production capacity of their production units.

The capacity of a factory is primarily expressed in terms of total machines factory have. Secondly, how much pieces the factory produces on daily for the specific products? In general, total numbers of machines in a factory mostly remains the same for a period. But factory may produce various types of the product during the season. According to the product (style) category, machine requirement may change and daily average production in each style may vary. So to be specific during booking orders, a planner should know exactly how much capacity he or she needed to procure the order in a given time period.

A factory’s capacity …

How to Find Actual RPM of a Sewing Machine?

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With the technology advancement, now sewing machines come with control panel and LCD display. The machine shows its real speed on the real time. So, you don't need to measure the machine speed separately as it is already available for your need.

But the traditional sewing machine those come with a clutch motor, machine speed is not available. Sewing machine manufacturers define machine rpm (maximum level) in the machine label and manual. On the shop floor, sewing machines are not being operated at maximum speed by the operator. Normally, sewing operators run a machine at a lower speed than specified maximum speed limit. It is not even possible to sew a garment at maximum machine speed.

So, what is the average or maximum speed at which an operator runs his machine?



There are two ways of finding the speed of a sewing machine. First, you can use an instrument, the digital tachometer or you can calculate the machines speed from the sewing time, seam length and machine SPI. In this po…

What is GSM in Fabric

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Whether you are a newcomer to textile and apparel manufacturing, or a designer, fashion entrepreneur, garment industry professional, apparel merchandiser, apparel retailer or a fabric sourcing guy, and you need to deal with fabric and fabric purchase, you must learn about the fabric GSM. All the things you need to know about the fabric GSM, its application, its effects on the fabric properties, the relation of the fabric gsm and fabric consumption, fabric costing will be discussed in this post.

What does fabric GSM mean?
Full form of GSM is grams per square meter (grams/m2). Fabric GSM represents its weight in grams. GSM is a metric measurement unit of surface or areal density which is used for measuring the thickness of sheet material. Fabric and paper thickness are measured in gsm. For an example, 180 gsm t-shirt means the weight of the knitted cotton fabric used for making that t-shirt is 180 grams per square meter area.

The openness of a fabric is understood by the gsm value. The …

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